Wines
The Champagnes of Jacque Lassaigne
Established in the sixties always naturally farmed and now under the watchful eyes of his sons Emmanuel(winemaker) and Ludovic.The domaine is situated in Montguex,a chalky site that some consider the finest for chardonnay in the whole of the Aube.A big portion of this area is also dedicated to pinot noir,of which they use to make outstanding roses as well as some harder to find vintage wines.
We have worked with the Lassaigne wines since the day we opened our doors and absolutely love them,definitely a ripe style that shows in even the Blanc de Blancs,never the less always a Terroir driven Champagne with finesse and restraint.
2008 COS CERASUOLO DI VITTORIA CLASSICO
Three childhood friends reunite as adults and decide to make wine: their first vintage turns out well enough to encourage them and they go on to become highly accomplished. They name their winery after themselves (”COS” is the first letter of each one’s surname) and somehow manage to make extraordinarily fresh wine in southeastern- most Sicily, an area perhaps better known for producing very ripe grapes. COS blends traditional and modern approaches: working with indigenous varieties, for example, and employing temperature controlled fermentations. This bottling is a blend: 40% Frappato, 60% Nero d’Avola. You may not think of Sicily when you’re looking for a wine of grace, finesse, and freshness, but here it is with sweet cherry fruit, snappy acidity, and lingering flavors.
2006 MIKULSKI BURGUNDIES
For an overview of the Mikulski estate and his approach to making wine see our earlier entry. Right now we want to tell you about the new releases. Mikulski owns and rents vineyards, principally in Meursault, and he recently stopped by to taste with us darn near his entire line up of 2006 white Burgundy wines. Wow! Not to take away anything from the 2005 vintage, which should still be left to age for awhile, but in 2006 the wines are tauter, more mineral, and perhaps more typical. In addition to some terrific Bourgogne blanc and an outstanding Aligoté, all of the greatest premier cru Meursault vineyards are here. (If you’re wondering where to start in the midst of such an abundance of riches, we think the Poruzots is particularly compelling.)2006 François Mikulski Aligoté2006 François Mikulski Bougogne blanc2006 François Mikulski Meursault 2006 François Mikulski Meursault “Poruzots”2006 François Mikulski Meursault “Genevrières”2006 François Mikulski Meursault “Charmes”2006 François Mikulski Meursault “Perrières”
2007 CLOS ROCHE BLANCHE GAMAY
It seems that in every vintage Catherine and Didier at Clos Roche Blanche come up with one wine that is particularly outstanding. In 2006 perhaps it was their Pineau d’Aunis, a wine that was just so delicious it was hard to get enough. In 2007 the standout may be this Gamay. Juicy, with a streak of minerality, it goes down way too easy. There is a lot of Gamay grown in the Loire Valley but that’s not to say that it tastes the same as it does when it is vinified in Beaujolais. This wine doesn’t taste like Beaujolais, and that’s part of the beauty of terroir: here we have a bottle whose contents speak of a different soil, climate, and place. Like all of the wines from Clos Roche Blanche, this one is completely hand crafted by a couple who do virtually all of the grape farming and winemaking themselves. Chill it a bit before enjoying, and feel free to pour it into a carafe-the aeration will bring out more of the luscious fruit aromas.
2006 CATHERINE ET PIERRE BRETON CHINON “ST. LOUAND”
A couple of years ago the Bretons, two of our favorite winemakers, lost their lease on some vines in the great Chinon vineyard called “Les Picasses” (2004 was their last vintage). Apparently they went out scouting for a suitable replacement and honed in on this, “St. Louand,” which we’ve not seen named on a Chinon label before. This 2006 is their first vintage. It’s off to a great start. Like “Les Picasses” and their best Bourgeuil bottlings, this wine can be enjoyed now but it is built to age with a ripe tannic structure and a bold streak of earthiness and minerality in amongst the berry-ish Cabernet Franc fruit. (And speaking of those great Bougueil bottlings, we’d be remiss if we forgot to mention the few magnums of 2005 “Les Perrières” we have in stock-an absolutely stupendous wine.)
2007 COENOBIUM
We’ve written about the 2005 vintage of this unique wine, and this is the third vintage we’ve offered. After a fatter, plusher 2006 effort, this 2007 returns to the mold of the 2005. It’s still a concoction of some endemic Umbrian grapes, and it’s still a little bit wild but very delicious. For this year two bottlings were made: the “regular” one, which is plenty good, and a “rusticum” cuvée that receives extended maceration on the skins and therefore has a deeper, more orange-y color in the glass. They are both terrific wines.
HOUILLON / OVERNOY ARBOIS PUPILLIN
Pierre Overnoy took over his father’s vineyards in 1968, tending them organically, which at the time was known simply as traditional (i.e. without herbicides, pesticides, fungicides, cultured yeasts, etc.). In his winemaking, he was a pioneer of what has come to be called natural wine, especially in his avoidance of the use of sulphur. Jules Chauvet, the Beaujolais négociant and wine researcher, was a mentor and friend in those early years and Overnoy’s goal was to make wines of terroir, which would reveal the minerality of their soils and the ripeness of their vintage.
Emmanuel Houillon came to Pierre as an apprentice in 1990. He went to school for two weeks in a row, then worked at the estate for two weeks. That lasted seven years, until he graduated from a course in viticulture and oenology. Overnoy then hired him as an employee. In 2001, Pierre Overnoy retired and Houillon, along with some family members, assumed responsibility for the estate, working in the same manner as Overnoy.
Pierre remains a prominent fixture on the French natural wine scene. The wines of the domaine are much sought after and are consequently in very short supply. We have to impose a one-bottle limit for each wine.
2000 Houillon/Overnoy Savagnin (sous voile, oxydative style)
2004 Houillon/Overnoy Savagnin (not oxydative style
2006 Houillon/Overnoy Chardonnay
2007 Houillon/Overnoy Poulsard
2007 DOMAINE DE LA TOURNELLE “L’UVA ARBOSIANA” POULSARD
From the Jura, this has got to be one the prettiest, most delicate wines in the shop right now. Think “pretty” and “delicate” are pejorative terms when applied to wine? Grow up already! Maybe a shade or two darker than a rosé, this was made by the carbonic maceration method and smells and tastes like flower juice (whatever that is). Evelyne and Pascal Clairet, who farm the grapes and make the wine, describe it as a vin de soif, to be enjoyed as an aperitif, or as an accompaniment to charcuterie or light dishes. If you’ve enjoyed some of the 2007 vintage cru Morgons (think Lapierre, Foillard), we think you’ll love this.
2007 DOMAINE HUET VOUVRAYS
We’ve said it before (see prior entries below) and we’ll gladly say it again: the Domaine Huet presents us with the ideal combination of winemaker (Noël Pinguet), grape (Chenin blanc), and terroir (the great Vouvray vineyards of Le Haut Lieu, Le Mont, and Clos du Bourg). The 2007 vintage has arrived and the wines are brilliant, magical products that are even greater than the sum of their very impressive parts.
The French wine press has recognized Pinguet as a vigneron presently at the summit of his craft, describing his wines as being of such purity and precision that they carry the reputation of the entire appellation to new heights (Bettane & Desseauve, Le Grand Guide des Vins de France 2009). The stunning wines we now have in stock were tasted with Pinguet and proprietor Anthony Hwang at the domaine in February (see accompanying photos). They are all tremendous. The vintage has graced the wines with aromas and flavors of citrus (grapefruit, orange, lemon peel), wet stone, peach, ginger, and honey, as well as copious amounts of racy, bracing, and balancing acidity. On top of it all, the differences inherent in the terroir of each of the three vineyards pierce through and provide the structure that will enable these wines to age indefinitely
Our stock comes from importer Robert Chadderdon: he carefully ships each case in temperature-controlled containers, and the wines await you in our own 54 degree vaults. We are proud to offer you these wines at what we believe may be some of the lowest prices in the U.S., making them some of the best values in the world of wine. Expert work in the vineyards, biodynamic farming, and the experience of a master winemaker worked together in 2007 to deliver Vouvrays that will complement many fine meals for years to come.
2007 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec “Le Haut Lieu” $25
2007 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec ”Le Mont” $28
2007 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec ”Clos du Bourg” $28
2007 Domaine Huet Vouvray Demi-Sec “Le Haut Lieu” $30
2007 Domaine Huet Vouvray Demi-Sec “Le Mont” $33
2001 Domaine Huet Vouvray Petillant brut $ 28
2007 JEAN FOILLARD MORGON COTE DU PY
Jean Foillard farms Gamay vines in some of the finest vineyards of Morgon, one of the “grand cru” regions of Beaujolais. He routinely makes some of the best wines in the entire appellation, especially from his holdings in the Côte du Py, where granitic soils and ideal exposure yield an extra special something in the glass. Foillard vinifies this wine like fine Burgundy and captures something that eludes most-there always seems to be extra flavor, fleshiness, and complexity in this wine. The 2007 vintage is no exception. How he does it we’re not sure, but this is a bigger bodied Morgon than most of its peers, particularly notable in this lighter-styled year. Sweet red fruit and some spiciness on the nose, real depth on the palate; don’t let anyone tell you that great wine is not made in Beaujolais.
2007 SENORIO DE P. PECINA RIOJA JOVEN
Señorío de P.Peciña is a relatively new winery (founded in 1992) making very traditionally-styled wines in Spain’s Rioja region. Although the winery is young, the average age of the vines (all of which are estate-owned) used to make the domaine’s wines is 25 years. Made from over 90% Tempranillo, the classic grape of Rioja, the aromas wafting from a just-poured glass of this young vines selection are likely to dazzle you (they did me) yet-bargain alert!-a bottle costs but $16. This is a wine for enjoying in its abundantly fruity youth. Great value here. Definitely a winery worth watching, and we recommend their Crianza and Reserva bottlings as well
.2005 VINOTERRA MTSVANE
First, that’s not a typo: Mtsvane is the name of the grape variety.Second, we’re not going out on a limb when we say we’ll bet you’venever had one of these before. From Georgia (the country, not thestate), this is fermented in kvevri-clay vessels-and matured inoak. Extended maceration on the grape skins no doubt explains thedistinctly rosy hue of the wine once it’s in your glass. With floraland tea-like scents along with a fleshy, fruit-filled palate, this ismore than a mere curiosity.
2007 FERRANDO ERBALUCE DI CALUSO
Located in Piemonte, Luigi Ferrando (with his sons Roberto andAndrea) has kept alive local winemaking traditions that mightotherwise have been lost to the fad for modern techniques. Primarilya producer of red wines (Nebbiolo from the mountainside vineyards ofCarema), the domaine also makes a splendid white from the localvarietal Erbaluce. Very fragrant, this 2007 vintage is bright,citrussy, and tangy in the manner of a fine Sauvignon blanc, butwithout a hint grassiness (or the cat pee overtones that can creepinto some examples of that variety). Lots of limes and mineralitymake this a delicious wine of great flexibility at the table.
2003 MONTEVERTINE ROSSO
In this day and age, when wine bureaucrats in France and Italy appear to have run amok, it must be very frustrating to be a quality-conscious winemaker. In both countries, wines must endure a process of peer approval before they can be labeled as conforming to the standards of a particular appellation. In France, this has resulted in a lot more “Vins de Table,” wines not bearing the name of the area where they were produced because the body of judges has deemed them “atypical.” The problem with this state of affairs is that, these days, “typical” often means overcropped, fermented with flavor-enhancing cultured yeasts, adulterated with various adjuncts, and sterile filtered. It’s no wonder that winemakers of integrity, who reduce their grape yields and take a non-interventionist approach in the cellar in order to produce a traditional, naturally made wine, are increasingly giving up on the whole appellation system.Which brings us to the Manetti family, proprietors of Montevertine in the Chianti area of Tuscany. Founded by Sergio Manetti in the 1960s, the domaine produces wines that are largely Sangiovese, the traditional local grape. The authorities governing the rules applicable to the Chianti appellation keep changing those rules, accommodating more and more modern practices (non-traditional grape varietals, new oak barrels, etc.). This led Signor Manetti to abandon the Chianti Classico consortium over 25 years ago; the winery is now in the hands of his son, Martino, who shares his father’s traditional approach and philosophy.The Montevertine estate is located near Radda, about halfway between Florence and Siena-ground zero for Chianti production. Here, the climate is a bit cooler and the wines escape the overripeness that can characterize those of surrounding producers. And if ever a vintage were prone to overripeness, 2003, the year of the heat wave, would be it. This wine, however, displays no hint of raisin or prune. Fresh and fruit-filled, its incipient complexity is coming to the fore. Pure, full of crushed cherries, some minerals and pepper, this is a lovely wine.
Aged for 18 months in large old barrels the estate’s 2006 PIAN DEL CIAMPOLO is the most precocious wine made at Montevertine, and in this recently released vintage it’s a standout. Almost all Sangiovese, this has authentic Chianti written all over it even though it does not bear the name of that appellation. Less expensive than the flagship Montevertine Rosso, this will satisfy your thirst for a genuine Tuscan wine.
FRANCOISE BEDEL CHAMPAGNE ‘ENTRE CIEL ET TERRE’
As she says on her website, “Françoise Bedel loves being in harmony with nature and the environment and wants to pass healthy land in perfect condition down to her children. That’s why she has used no fertilizers or chemicals in her vineyard since 1998.” That’s a pretty good place to start. As it happens, she knows how to make great wine, too.With seven hectares of vineyards devoted largely to Pinot Meunier, one of the three noble Champagne-producing grapes, Françoise vinifies several cuvées in vats and barrels, according each cuvée all the time and attention it needs, even to the point of hand riddling every bottle. The one we have selected, artfully named ‘between heaven and earth,’ is indeed on the airy and rarefied side. A blend of 41% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, and 24% Meunier, the wine is labeled as a non-vintage bottling but in fact comes entirely from a single vintage which is allowed to age extensively before it is released: this wine comes from grapes harvested in 1999. All of that care and extra aging results in a beautiful wine that we just love.
Let's tell it like it is (or as we see it anyway!)--almost all of the Champagne you've seen advertised in full-page,
glossy ads pasted in national magazines, typically featuring a sultry babe dressed revealingly in black, tastes like crap.
Tart, thin, acidic crap.And while you might enjoy looking at that woman, you'd shudder in horror if you saw a photo
of the vineyards where the grapes for those wines are grown. Ever whizzed through Champagne on a train or in a car?
Between the vines it's like a moonscape--nothing grows, nothing lives. The growers who supply the big brands don't care:
they're paid for quantity, not quality. One way to get rich in Champagne would be to have a lock on fertilizer, pesticide,
and herbicide distribution.But fortunately there are a growing number of people who take their land and their wines seriously,
whose focus is on the quality that's in the bottle, not the model in the ad.
Prominent among these committed Champagne vignerons is Francis Egly, who merits the title artisan winemaker.
With vines in mostly Grand Cru vineyards located in Bouzy, Verzenay, and Ambonnay, Egly crafts Champagne of real character
and grace. And those vines are, on average, 30 to 40 years old, positively ancient by the standards of Champagne.
In the cellar, as in the vineyard, Egly coaxes the best out of what nature accords him in each vintage, barrel fermenting,
patiently allowing his wines to rest on their fine lees for years, and bottling without filtration. His wines are layered,
deep, profound. In a practice we'd like to see more Champagne producers adopt,
he labels each bottle with its date of disgorgement and indicates how long it spent aged on its lees.
NV Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru Extra Brut V.P. (Vieillissement Prolongé)60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay,
aged over three years on its lees,minimal dosage.
NV Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru Brut Rosé60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, with a small addition of Ambonnay rouge
to add color and rose-like perfume.
NV Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru Brut Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes ‘LesCrayères’100% Pinot Noir from a single vineyard of 70-year old vines.
Spends over four years on its lees, and has the substance of a great still red wine.
COTAT SANCERREFirst there was Francis and Paul Cotat: for years, from shortly after WWII until the 1990s, the two brothers made Sancerre in the appellation’s best village, Chavignol. The wines they made, a single cuvée from each of their vineyards, were anchored in tradition, and by the time of their retirements no more than a handful of veterans were making Sancerre this way. Very low yields, very ripe Sauvignon blanc grapes, fermentation in old wood, bottling without filtration: these were practices that had all but disappeared as Sancerre in general became a lighter, simpler, mass produced product. Each year the brothers released their ‘La Grande Côte,’ ‘Les Culs de Beaujeu,’ and ‘Monts Damnés,’ made together in a single facility but bottled separately under each brother’s own label. (There’s always been something dramatic about how the folks in Sancerre named their greatest vineyards-’Damned Hills,’ for example, or ‘Beaujeu’s Ass,’ and that’s not the four-footed animal kind of ass.)The torch has been passed to their sons, Pascal and François, who continue in their fathers’ footsteps, although they now work in their own individual facilities. The wines are still unique, made from grapes that have ripened longer on steeper slopes, and are sometimes bottled with enough residual sugar to make them off-dry or even downright sweet. In stark contrast to the majority of Sancerre, these wines are built to age and in some vintages are only reaching their full potential after a decade. Quantities are minuscule and demand is high, but we are offering:2007 François Cotat Sancerre ‘La Grande Côte’ 2007 François Cotat Sancerre ‘Les Culs de Beaujeu’2007 François Cotat Sancerre ‘Les Monts Damnés’2007 François Cotat Chavignol Rosé2007 Pascal Cotat Sancerre ‘La Grande Côte’2007 Pascal Cotat Sancerre ‘Les Monts Damnés’ 2007 Pascal Cotat Chavignol Rosé
2007 MARCEL LAPIERRE MORGON
Marcel Lapierre started a revolution in Beaujolais. Or perhaps it is more accurate to describe it as a counterrevolution. One of the few practicing winemakers who had the opportunity to work with Jules Chauvet, spiritual father of French natural winemaking, Lapierre returned to traditional vinification practices. He avoids commercial yeasts and adds no sulphur dioxide to the fermentation of his grapes. He has stated: “I’m just making the wine of my father and grandfather, but I’m trying to make it a little better.” He doesn’t use a state of the art pneumatic press, but rather a vertical wooden press in which each pressing can last 12 hours and the juice, filtered through a mass of grape skins, runs clear. His wines are matured for up to 12 months in old wooden casks and used Burgundy barrels.Lapierre’s 2007 is unmistakably Morgon in character, on the delicate side, with freshness and sweet fruit but less heft than the prior two vintages. Just in time for the holidays, this can accompany a variety of seasonal fare, complementing rather than battling what is on the table. It is gulpable (or, as Lapierre would say it, gouleyant), scented, and silky. And, bless him, the price is the same as last year’s vintage, notwithstanding all of the intervening financial chaos.KIRALYUDVAR WINERY (HUNGARY)
The best known wine produced in Hungary is the sweet dessert wine Tokaji, but if you took a poll of even fairly serious wine geeks you wouldn’t find many who’d tasted more than a bottle or two. So why are we carrying everything we can lay our hands on from this genuine vinous outpost? Maybe it has something to do with the fact that Királyudvar benefits from the experience of Noel Pinguet, winemaker at Domaine Huet in the Loire Valley, which we would rank amongst the top ten wineries in the world. Királyudvar (”King’s Court”) has been in existence for centuries, although under state ownership for decades after WWI it fell upon hard times. In 1997, it came into the hands of a private enthusiast determined to return the estate to its past grandeur. Over the next decade, the facilities were rebuilt and grand cru vineyards throughout the area were collected and restored. Common ownership with Domaine Huet made M. Pinguet’s services available, alongside those of experienced Hungarian hands. Working with local varietals to make not just sweet wines but a full range of whites, today the estate offers the best in terroir expression, modern innovation, and traditional techniques. 2005 Királyudvar Sec70% Furmint, 30% Hárslevelu; fermented in Hungarian oak. “The sugar levels of the fruit in Tokaj are naturally high. Our initial struggle to produce a world-class dry wine was to find ripe berries unaffected by botrytis with lower levels of sugar. Over time, we have discovered that in particular vineyards the onset of botrytis consistently occurs late in the season. From these unique places, we are able to harvest berries perfectly suited for our company Sec.” — Anthony Hwang, proprietor2006 Királyudvar Demi-SecSame varietals as the Sec. A wine that has won over many converts at the bar. Soft, buttery nose, balanced, voluptuous palate, finishing dry with subtle mineral notes. Hints of grapefruit and white peach on the palate and a full-bodied fleshiness balanced by superfine green apple acidity in the mouth. Enjoyable today, the wine is still in its infancy and should age well over time.2002 Királyudvar Tokaji IlonaKirályudvar produces this cuvée from select bunches of heavily botrytized berries consisting of the region’s three primary varietals: Furmint, Hárslevelu;, and Muskotály. After the bunches are gently pressed, a slow fermentation in Hungarian oak balances the alcohol, acidity, and sugar levels to a harmonious whole. The wine undergoes barrel aging for a minimum of six months with further bottle-aging. Residual sugar: 156 g/l; total acidity: 6.9 g/l; alcohol content: 11.2%. Aromas of exotic spices, fruit resin, and lychee are accented by a touch of honey. On the palate, abundant flavors of fresh fruit continue where the nose leaves off. Creamy roundness in the mouth is balanced by lively acids.2005 Királyudvar Tokali PatriciaPatricia is a noble late-harvest wine made from 100% Muskotály fruit. The bunch-selected berries, heavily affected by botrytis, are gently pressed and crafted into a brilliantly colored wine. Residual sugar: 131 g/l; total acidity: 10.6 g/l; alcohol content: 11.3%. Aged 12 months in large Hungarian oak tuns.2006 Királyudvar Tokaji Hárslevelu; LapisA first: made from 100% Hárslevelu; berries shriveled by climatic conditions (passérillage), not noble rot. These rare grapes were harvested on the first of December, the last day of the 2006 harvest, from parcels undamaged by the region’s harsh winter climate. Residual sugar: 79 g/l; total acidity: 6.8 g/l; alcohol content: 12.7%. A unique wine bestowed upon us by vintage conditions.2002 Királyudvar Tokaji Aszú MuskotályA limited (200 cases) special bottling made from 100% Muscat grapes. Residual sugar: 180 g/l; total acidity: 6.6 g/l; alcohol content: 11.5%. Aromas typical of a garden and a spice chest, in this bottling Királyudvar has succeeded in isolating the essence of one of the most charming grape varietals of the Tokaj region.
2007 JEAN MAUPERTUIS ‘LA GUILLAUME’
Some of you may have known, or known of, the wines of the Domaine de Peyra, which is no more. One of the original partners there was Jean Maupertuis. High (450 meters, to be precise) in the Côte d’Auvergne, M. Maupertuis continues to fashion wines made from Gamay grapes that are hand harvested, fermented on indigenous yeasts, and bottled unfiltered with minimal addition of sulphur. Once upon a time the Côte d’Auvergne was home to more Gamay vineyards than all of Beaujolais, and supplied daily rations of wine low in alcohol for countless industrial workers. Then, low alcohol meant around 8 degrees; this wine checks in a bit higher, but still at only 10.5 degrees. Reminiscent of a good example of one of the Peyra wines, this has a soft yet haunting bouquet that calls to mind small red fruits and flowers. It is juicy, thirst quenching, easy to swallow.
THIERRY PUZELAT AND CLOS DU TUE BOEUF
Is there a more dynamic producer of great wines than Thierry Puzelat anywhere in the world right now? Maybe not. With his brother, Jean-Marie, at the family’s estate Clos du Tue Boeuf, or on his own at his eponymously named domaine, Puzelat consistently delights us. Everything we look for in a wine is present and accounted for. Organic or biodynamic viticulture: check. Low yields: check. Indigenous yeasts: check. Delicious, exciting, and fun wines: check, check, and check. Thierry seems to bring out the best in all of his raw materials.
From the 2007 Clos du Tue Boeuf Cheverny Rouillon (a blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay) we get maximum cherry-scented slurpability. Puzelat’s own 2006 KO (Cot, aka Malbec) is also terrific but in a different way: it will age and gain weight with time, before reaching its black-fruited apogee. Tue Boeuf’s 2007 Gamay is an addictive thirst quencher, and Puzelat’s 2007 La Tesnière ought to delight just about anyone. Want to try some of the wines that get us most excited, that inspired us to risk all that we had on this business venture? Start here.
MIKULSKI MEURSAULT
You don’t have to be all that familiar with Burgundy to notice two unusual things about François Mikulski’s wines right off the bat: the name and the label. As for the name, his father brought it with him when he arrived in France from Poland, via England. And the label is an intentional effort to signal something a bit out of the ordinary. Mikulski started his domaine in 1992; he gained some work experience at Calera Wine Company here in California, and has shared ideas with Ted Lemon, who now makes wines at Littorai, when the latter was working at Domaine Roulot in Meursault. Mikulski rents his village and premier cru vineyards, about 8.5 hectares in all. Right now we’re offering Mikulski’s AOC Meursault and Premier Cru ‘Charmes’ from the renowned 2005 vintage. These wines are raised in barrels, but see no more than 15-20% new oak. Mikulski’s stated goals are purity and minerality; he seeks depth and complexity but wants wines that are refreshing, that one wants to keep drinking. We think the results are brilliant; GG says that the minerality of these wines reminds him of the best the Jura has to offer.2005 François Mikulski Meursault AOC2005 François Mikulski Meursault Premier Cru ‘Charmes’
THE BAROLOS OF GIUSEPPE RINALDI
With old vines in several coveted vineyards, the Barolos of Giuseppe Rinaldi are made according to traditions handed down to him from his father, Battista, a former mayor of Barolo. Since 1993, Rinaldi has bottled two different pairs of blends, all sourced from the same estate vineyards: one cuvée of Brunate and Le Coste (10,000 bottles), the other, no less impressive, of Cannubi San Lorenzo and Ravera (3,500 bottles). Vinification is classic and identical, with lengthy macerations on the skins and maturation in the large Slavonian oak botti dear to old school Barolo winemakers and to the character of authentic Barolo (the possibility of using small, new-oak barrels is something that would never even occur to Rinaldi). These are not wines to be enjoyed in their youth: all of their personality traits, their tannic structure, their acidity and verve, their elegant aromatics, are designed for long-term cellaring.
We have received the 2004 vintage of these wines, a vintage reputed to be one for the ages, in 750 ml. bottles and magnums. Those who appreciate tradition will not want to miss these outstanding efforts, each of which will age gracefully for several decades.
2005 DOMAINE DU CLOSEL SAVENNIERES ‘LA JALOUSIE’
The Domaine du Closel is owned and operated by women, including the formidable Madame de Jessey, whose family has a long history in this part of the Loire Valley. The estate’s wines are all based on Chenin blanc. If you’ve read many of our wine notes then you know that we hold Chenin blanc in the highest regard and consider it to be perhaps the most ignored, most underrated great white wine grape on the planet. It can be used to make a wide range of styles of wine, some of which all but demand decades of aging. Not this one. La Jalousie is a classic Savennieres from a stainless-steel cuvee of young and older vines grown on steep soils of pure schist and it’s drinking well right now.The first thing to register with us as we dip our nose into a glass is the aroma of honey; it just oozes the sweet smell of honey. On the palate, though, the wine is crisp and bright, not sweet at all. Sort of like honey without the sugar.
DOMAINE RIMBERT
Jean-Marie Rimbert established his domaine in France’s Languedoc region in 1996, and within a few years had garnered a good deal of attention for his St. Chinians. His property is located near the entrance to a significant natural reserve and all of his wine is produced in a manner that, as he says, respects the natural environment, the men who make it, and the people who drink it. We recommend Jean-Marie’s 2006 ‘Travers de Marceau,’ a red wine to be drunk young and just slightly chilled. It is 40% Carignan, 40% Syrah, and 20% Cinsault. From older vines (70% of the blend is from vines aged 50 years or more) Rimbert makes his 2006 ‘Mas Au Schiste’ (and, yes, that’s a pun). This rich, textured red is 35% Carignan, 30% Syrah, 30% Grenache, and 5% Mourvedre. It is very good right now but can age for 3-5 years. One of us has been following the domaine’s wines in almost every vintage since 2001 and has never been disappointed. These wines have soul.
2007 CATHERINE ET PIERRE BRETON BOURGUEIL ‘TRINCH!’
“Quite simply, this is one of the most delicious wines (and the most quaffable, I might add) that I’ve tasted in France this year. It smells of freshly crushed fruit, as if the Bretons succeeded in preserving the smell as the grapes tumbled into the vats sulphur-free at harvest. Then on the palate it is fresh, bright, soft, pure. For me it is a perfect Cabernet Franc. Let me add that Trinch weighs in at 11.9° alcohol, such a rarity these days and just right for many occasions.” -Kermit Lynch, Importer (For some additional Breton selections, see below.)
2001 PAOLO BEA MONTEFALCO SAGRANTINO PASSITO (375 ml.)
Paolo Bea is a world class winemaker whose approach to his craft canbe summed up in his motto: ‘nature should be observed, heard,understood, not dominated.’ He is patient, attentive, and gifted.This sweet wine bears all the hallmarks of Bea’s philosophy. Onehundred percent Sagrantino grown at 400 meters elevation, the grapesare hand harvested and then placed on straw mats where they areallowed to dry via natural ventilation for about five months. Thedried grapes are then pressed and a slow fermentation and macerationtakes place, followed by five years of aging in steel vats, and a bitmore in bottle. The resulting wine is unique, acquiring characteristics of dried persimmons and figs.
CLOS ROCHE BLANCHE
Catherine Roussel and Didier Barrouillet rarely put a foot wrong. How they make such consistently delicious wine at their estate in the Loire Valley, which has been in Catherine’s family for generations, provides an object lesson in conscientious viticulture, talented winemaking, and perhaps most important of all, great taste. At least one of us rates this estate a top favorite (and that would be out of all wineries, wherever!). Harvest yields in 2007 were way down, so there is less wine than usual to go around.
Despite any vintage difficulties, the 2007 Clos Roche Blanche Sauvignon Blanc No. 2 is just a lovely wine, with real varietal character but none of the assertive grassiness often associated with the grape. A true vin de plaisir. The 2007 Clos Roche Blanche Cabernet is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. It has a delicate, almost mint-like hint to its perfume and the flavors of red and black fruits. It’s not a complicated wine, but that only makes it easier to appreciate. We love these wines.
Similarly, Catherine and Didier have succeeded yet again with their Pineau d’Aunis. The wine is labeled ‘L’Arpent Rouge,’ and it’s scrumptious for at least the second vintage in a row. In addition to the typical strawberry fruit and cracked peppercorn overtones, this year’s version has an herbal element that gives the wine an added dimension. These two vignerons are scaling back their activities in preparation for retirement-still a few years down the road-and it’s sad to think that these wonderful hand made, food friendly wines won’t always be available. We intend to enjoy all that we can.
2006 ROBERT ET BERNARD PLAGEOLES ‘LE DURAS’Located in the Southwest corner of France near Albi,Gaillac has a long history of winemaking (like, arounda thousand years!). The appellation’s most renownedproducers are Robert Plageoles and his son Bernardwhose vineyards comprise 37 acres. The Plageoles arecommitted to using Gaillac’s indigenous varietalsrather than better known and more ‘international’grapes. This red made from Duras is ripe but lively onthe palate with plenty of balancing acidity andfruitiness. Excellent quality/price ratio here at $18a bottle. (And try their light, sparkling MauzacNatur, too, for a burst of freshness.)GIUSEPPE QUINTARELLIKnown as the Master of the Veneto, Giuseppe Quintarelli makes some of the world’s mostsought-after wines. His limited production Amarones,Reciotos, and Valpolicellas are the epitome of theirrespective appellations. Their greatness stems fromthe inherent quality of their terroirs and the naturaltalents of this master winemaker. Quintarelli releaseshis wines only when he deems them ready, keeping themin the cellar for as long as he feels necessary until the right moment arrives.1998 Quintarelli Valpolicella1998 Quintarelli Ca’ del MerloThese wines are identical in grape compositionand are made through the ripasso method, whereby a portion of the harvest’s grapes are dried on mats, andthen fermented to yield a more concentrated wine thatoften tastes of prune, earth, and roasted berries. TheCa’ del Merlo (not to be confused with Merlot) is agedlonger in large wood vessels and comes from a singlehilltop vineyard, named after a local bluebird. Theseare special occasion wines, possessing an astonishingdepth and complexity.Also available:2004 Quintarelli Primofiore (bottles and magnums)2006 Quintarelli Ca’ del Merlo Bianco (bottles and magnums)DOMAINE GRAMENON2007 Côtes du Rhône ‘Poignée de Raisins’This Grenache-based wine from the Southern RhôneValley is made in a drink-me-now style using thecarbonic maceration method. Appropriately named “ahandful of grapes,” it is bursting with pure, savoryfruit meant to afford maximum pleasure in its youth.2006 BURGUNDIES OF PHILIPPE PACALET We are privileged to be able to offer a very limitedsupply of the magnificent Burgundies of this acclaimednatural winemaker. Nephew of the renown MarcelLapierre (vigneron of iconic Morgons), student ofJules Chauvet (father of French natural winemaking),Pacalet owns no vines but rents plots that meet hisexceedingly high standards and farms them personally.In order to let each specific terroir express itselfcompletely he uses no sulphur during fermentation,adding only a minimal amount at bottling. These winesare without exception elegant, aromatic expressions ofPinot Noir.We offer the following wines-2006 Philippe PacaletPommard2006 Philippe Pacalet Pommard 1er Cru2006 Philippe Pacalet Chambolle Musigny2006 Philippe Pacalet Chambolle Musigny 1er cru2006 Philippe Pacalet Gevrey Chambertin2006 Philippe Pacalet Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru ‘Bel Air‘DARD ET RIBORené-Jean Dard and François Ribo established theirdomaine in 1984, in a back street of Tain-l’Hermitage.Rhône Valley natives, Dard and Ribo met in wine schoolin Beaune. There was about two-and-a-half acres ofvines from Dard’s family, and they have rented oracquired additional vineyards over the years so thatnow they farm about 7.5 hectares in Crozes-Hermitage,St. Joseph, and a slice of Hermitage.They craft subtle, unextracted Syrah meant to be drunkearly, on the gorgeous fruit (bottled with syntheticcorks).2006 Dard et Ribo Crozes Hermitage2006 Dard et Ribo St. JosephDon’t age these wines-open and guzzle themimmediately. In fact, once you open one you’ll behard pressed to hold back. Beautiful fruit, smoky andbacon-scented, characterizes both bottlings.Absolutely addictive juice. Our supply is verylimited; please hurry if you want to try thesewonderful wines.ARIANNA OCCHIPINTI (SICILY)Arianna is from the Vittoria region of Southern Sicilyand has been making wine for ten years (though that ishard to believe because she looks as though she isstill in her twenties). Farming biodynamically andharvesting her fruit in October, Arianna is able tofashion natural wines that are fresh and full offinesse while those around her make wine out of whatare, comparatively speaking, practically raisins.2006 Occhipinti Il Frappato2006 Occhipinti Nero d’AvolaFrom vines eight to twelve years old, planted at over250 meters elevation, these are elegant examples ofnatural, unfiltered traditional Sicilian varietals.Throw away all your preconceptions concerning SouthernItalian vino-there is no super ripeness or high alcohol to be found here. 2004 RAVENEAU CHABLIS PREMIER CRU ‘FORET’It isn’t often that you see a bottle of Chablis fromthe iconic Raveneau estate offered for sale-almost every bottle is snapped up before the wines have been placed on the market. No one makes better Chablis than the Raveneau brothers, and there are more than afew folks who will argue that there is no better white Burgundy-or Chardonnay-based wine, for that matter-than Chablis. We have been able to secure a small allotment of this wine from the classic 2004vintage. The product of some of the estate’s youngervines, there is really no need to wait to enjoy this.DOMAINE ANDRE OSTERTAG RIESLINGS
Ostertag has rattled more than a few cages in Alsace.Something of an experimenter, he has raised some ofhis wines in new oak, and was an early convert tobiodynamic farming principles. While terms like”eccentric” and even “wacky” have been used todescribe him (though sometimes you have to considerthe source), even a brief face-to-face meeting leavesone with little doubt of his passion and commitment tomake the best wines his terroir can produce. Here is achance to see for yourself what terroir is all about:three wines from the same vigneron, the same varietal,the same vintage. You will taste differencesattributable to geology, climate, and other factorsoutside the realm of human influence.2006 Ostertag Riesling ‘Fronholz’
Dry and off-dry Riesling is perhaps the most flexiblewhite wine in the world. This has prominent citrusovertones (lemon, grapefruit) with an appealing touchof bitter on the finish.2006 Ostertag Riesling ‘Heissenberg’This wine sits on another part of the Riesling/terroirspectrum, with notes of fresh, sweet apples and pearsframed by a dry styled wine with ideal acidity.2006 Ostertag Riesling Grand Cru ‘Muenchberg’Can you taste the difference a Grand Cru terroir makes? Absolutely. This wine screams limes andminerals. Lovely now, and will improve in the bottlefor years to come.THE RIOJAS OF LOPEZ DE HEREDIA
Little about López de Heredia has changed since itsfounding over 130 years ago and, unlike most otherestates in its region, it remains owned and operatedby the descendants of its founders. The López familyadheres to winemaking traditions dating back to the1880s, making wine only from their own vineyards, handharvesting, using natural yeasts, aging in old wood,and not filtering at bottling. If you haven’t tastedtraditional Rioja-no chemicals, no pesticides, nochaptalization, no machines, no overt new-oakinfluences-López de Heredia should be at the top ofyour list.2002 Viña Cubillo Crianza A Spring frost reduced yields by 50%, though carefulselection in the vineyard resulted in healthy fruit atharvest time. Today, the wine is evolving nicelyand shows a ripeness and elegance that complementstapas, cheeses, and charcuterie.1999 Viña BosconiaTondonia and Bosconia refer to single-vineyard sites.Aged in old wood barrels, this wine shows a deep rubycolor, persistent nose, and full bodied flavorsdominated by the Tempranillo grape. Its taste isround, smooth, and fresh. Genuine, impressive OldWorld-style wine.1999 Viña Tondonia RiservaAged five-and-a-half years in barrel. The blend does not vary much from year to year: Tondonia reds are ablend of mostly Tempranillo, with Grenache, Graciano,and Manzuela (the first two provide the wine with backbone and aging capability, while the latter two contribute color and the balancing acidity for which these wines are justly renowned). Color: Vibrant red leading slightly towards amber. Nose: Light fresh texture with notes of vanilla and dried berry aromas.Taste: Rich, very dry, smooth, developed. Firm tannins and balance.1989 Viña Tondonia Riserva BiancoThat’s right, a 19 year-old white wine. A complex blend of local varietals Viura (90%) and Malvasia.Aged six years in barrel. An ideal accompaniment to grilled seafood1997 Viña Tondonia Riserva Rosado Rosado = Pink. Eleven year-old rosé? Indeed. Peachskin color; still fresh and smooth with body and acomplexity that can only come from the extended barrelaging accorded this blend of Grenache, Tempranillo,and Viura. This versatile wine will complement manydishes, especially in summertime due to its freshness.It goes very well with spicy and hot food. Perfectwith top-quality grilled sausages, it also combineswith Indian, Mexican and Chinese style foods.2005 RICHARD LEROY ANJOU BLANC ‘LES NOELS DE MONTBENAULT’‘
Richard Leroy is a former Paris banker who establishedhis Loire Valley estate in 1996. The Chenin Blancused in this wine was harvested in several separatepasses through the vineyard, only the best grapesbeing selected each time. The vines are 45 years oldand grow in soil of volcanic origin. Widely viewed asone of the most stunning Chenins of the Loire, fromone of the most highly regarded vintages of the pasttwo decades. Svelte, mineral, with notes of quinceand white-fleshed fruit. Will age magnificently.This is something special.DOMAINE HUET “LE HAUT LIEU SEC” 2006
Created in 1928, the estate is now run by Noel PINGUET who converted the vineyards to biodynamic viticulture at the beginning of the 1990s. The domaine has 35 hectares of vines separated in three plots, le Haut-Lieu, le Mont, and le Clos du Bourg. Le Haut-Lieu vineyard is essentially limestone and clay. Fifteen percent of the vines are one to ten years old, 35% are between ten and thirty, and the remaining half range between 30 and 50 years old.This wine, though fresh and enjoyable now, would benefit from aging, developing easily over ten years. Huet is definitely a house favorite Vouvray producer along with the wines of Philippe FOREAU (aka Domaine du Clos Naudin). Also look for the wines from Hungarian producer KIRALYUDVAR: these are also crafted by Noel Pinguet (the domaines share common ownership).DOMAINE HUET MOELLEUX 1ERE TRIE “CLOS DU BOURG” 2005A stunning sweet wine.”The Clos du Bourg 1ere Trie is clearly on its way to being one of the defining wines of a great vintage, as it offers up a depth, purity and flavor authority on the palate that is simply stunning. The bouquet is still closed and primary, but amazingly deep, as it delivers a melange of wet stone, apple, pineapple, great minerality, bee pollen and youthful notes of chalk dust. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, pure and extremely soil-driven, with a rock solid core, perfect focus and balance, and very snappy acids giving the wine an almost electric impression on the very long, profound finish. Humbling juice in the making.” -John Gilman, View from the CellarPHILIPPE FOREAU (DOMAINE DU CLOS NAUDIN) MOELLEUX 1994Since 1983, Philippe FOREAU has run the family estate purchased by his grandfather in 1923, using organic viticulture, no herbicides or pesticides, and never chaptalizing (adding sugar to) his wines. The sweeter demi-secs and moelleux wines are made only when the vintage allows it-in other words, the sweetness is natural, not added.Vines are 35 years old on average, and the grapes are hand harvested, then fermented in 300 liter oak barrels with no malolactic fermentations. This is a fantastic wine to accompany strong cheeses (Roquefort, Munster), a caramelized plum tart, or (are you adventurous?) even oysters!ALICE AND OLIVIER DE MOORThe de Moors both graduated from the enology program at the university in Beaune. When asked, however, how they apply that education to the wines they make in Chablis their reply is along the lines of: “we don’t-at school we learned all the things we don’t want to do in our own winery.” The de Moors do not manipulate their wines, which is a bit out of the ordinary in an area where chaptalization and acidulation (not to mention overcropping, liberal application of chemicals, and machine harvesting) are not uncommon. Their grapes are hand harvested at yields that are about 20% below the legally permitted maximum.The wines are fermented and aged in old barrels which lend a degree of roundness without any overt oak flavor. At bottling, little sulphur is added, and the wines are not filtered. The de Moors craft rich, deep wines. They are perhaps less “steely” than some other wines in the area, but their added density has great appeal. The 2005 “Bel Air et Clardy” is made from vines in two separate “lieux-dits” and displays white flower and citrus notes. The 2005 “Rosette” is from a “lieu-dit” located adjacent to a premier cru vineyard. It is the top cuvee from the de Moors. Very minerally, the wine is eminently enjoyable now, but should benefit from additional bottle aging. Given their balance, the de Moor Chablis make excellent dining companions..CATHERINE & PIERRE BRETONWhat more can we add to what has been written about the Bretons? Standard bearers in the world of French natural wines, their bottlings of Chinon and Bourgueil-neighboring Loire Valley appellations devoted to red wines made from Cabernet Franc-are on most of the best wine lists in Paris. The wines are consistently well-crafted, characteristic, and ageworthy. (Check out the Bretons’ website: http://www.domainebreton.net.)The 2005 vintage was remarkable, bringing ripe (not overripe) fruit with plenty of balance and substance. The Bourgueil ‘Clos Senechal’ is made from vines 15-30 years old, growing in clay/limestone/chalky soil on a slope with ideal southern exposure. Hand harvested, vinified in open wooden vats, and bottled without fining or filtration, this wine is already seductive, but if carefully stored could last a decade at least. Full of dark berry fruit and a touch of tobacco, it offers outstanding value.JACQUES PUFFENEY ARBOISThe wines of the Jura (in eastern France near the Swiss border) are not well known in the U.S. While Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are grown in the region, many wines are made from unfamiliar varietals (such as Savagnin, Poulsard, and Trousseau), and some white wines are crafted in a deliberately oxidized style (think sherry-like flavors).For someone who doesn’t know what to expect, a particular bottle may offer up a hefty dose of surprise.We feel that these wines should not be missed and are happy to guide the curious towards a new tasting experience. Jacques Puffeney makes his wines in Arbois, one of the appellations of the region. Puffeney is regarded by his fellow Jura winemakers as a leader in the area. As is the case for all of our wines, Puffeney’s Arbois are made from organically grown grapes and vinified according to traditional methods.One wine that’s easy to like is Puffeney’s 2002 Arbois “Melon Queue Rouge” (loosely translated as “grape with a red tail”). This variety of Chardonnay is distinguished by a small pink region at one end of each berry. The wine is fermented in stainless steel then moved to wood for 18-24 months of aging before being bottled. Bearing the stamp of its unique Arbois terroir, if you enjoy fresh, non-oaky Chardonnay you will have no difficulty appreciating the taste of this wine. Puffeney does not fine or filter his wines; perhaps that shows in the juicy snap and volume of this flexible wine.Puffeney’s 2004 “Poulsard” is one of our favorite reds: light, lean, and amazingly mineral with beautiful notes of red fruits and a perfect acidity. This, along with some Beaujolais wines we carry, is a great summer red. It’s what I might drink on a sunny Sunday in Dolores Park-if I had Sundays off!FLASH! We love these wines-so much so that we have expanded our selection. The three wines described below were featured at the recent Neal Rosenthal in-store book signing event and won many new converts2003 Arbois “Savagnin.” The Savagnin varietal is widely planted in Arbois and perhaps nowhere else. It is used to produce a white wine that is intentionally exposed to air, resulting in a tangy, walnutty spectrum of aromas and flavors. Puffeney’s version displays these characteristics to a “T,” and is a great introduction to this style. It may sound unusual, but many people are impressed by how much they like this wine the first time they try it.The 2004 “Sacha” is a blend of Savagnin and Chardonnay, also made in the oxidized style. The Chardonnay adds, perhaps, a dollop of freshness to the nutty profile of the Savagnin. Note also that a 1999 Sacha was opened for the Rosenthal event, and nine years on the wine was singing. These age wonderfully!A red wine, the 2004 “Vieilles Vignes” is a blend of one-third each Poulsard, Trousseau, and Pinot Noir. The Pinot Noir contributes some full, berry-like sweetness to the earthy, soil-inflected tones of the other two classic Arbois varietals in this juicy, minerally trio.Radikon “Oslavje” 2002
One of those “weird wines” that we love so much at Terroir! Long maceration on the grape skins, no temperature control, no sulphur…this wine is made in the vineyard, not in a lab. “Oslavje” is a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc, and Pinot Gris. Orange in color, it is a tannic white wine with loads of spices, white flowers, and apples on the nose. A perfect match for aged cheeses or any hearty, rich Friulian dish such as creamy chicken with potatoes (we said hearty!)